Africa Journal
September 21, 1995
Then into town where we meet at the Shearwater Rafting office for an all day canoe trip on the upper (above the falls) Zambezi river. We had originally planned to go whitewater rafting on the lower Zambezi as stated in the itinerary, but when we looked at the travel vouchers, we found that we had been mistakenly booked on the canoe trip. We took this as an omen from the travel gods, and decide to forego the whitewater. This decision was made easier after we heard a horror story about a recent drowning (not the outfit we had been booked with, which has an excellent safety record). The water is very low due to the drought, and the additional rock exposure may be creating additional risk for the class 4 and 5 rapids.
Our tamer canoe trip begins with a game drive through the Zambezi National Park where it parallels the banks of the Zambezi river. We pass a portion of the park that is fenced off with barbed wire and posted with signs warning of mines. This was near a shallow portion of the river that could be easily crossed. The Rhodesian Security Forces mined the area during the war. Over the years, most, if not all, of the mines have been detonated by wildlife. We stop to talk to another guide, who displays a dent in the fender of his tour vehicle caused by a charging elephant. "The clients found it exciting." He says.
Over dinner at the Masuwe Lodge , we trade stories with the other guests. We learn that on the morning game drive, Clever spotted a fresh kill. Hyenas were ripping apart a cape buffalo. Vivid descriptions of Hyenas with blood soaked heads and the sounds of crunching bones does not seem to affect anyone’s appetite. I drink too much wine and to the astonishment of all present, announce that I am intending to bungee jump off of the Victoria Falls bridge the next day.
After dinner, Sigrid and I go on a night game drive with Mark. This consists of Mark driving the property while I sweep the area with a million candlepower spotlight, looking for the reflecting eyes of animals. I spot an antelope, a water buck, and 12 to 15 wolf spiders, which, interestingly enough, throw back a bright yellow/green reflection when hit with the light. Mark captures one of the spiders for detailed identification later, and promises to name it after me if it turns out to be a new species. I magnanimously offer a hyphenation since he did the capture.
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